My Fuel Line Upgrade

Well I figured that the cause of my high rpm stutter and knock counts that my fuel system wasn't delivering the fuel needed for 20 psi, silly me :)  So I decided to upgrade my fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail.  Here's how I did it.

All Russell fittings and hose were purchased from Lordco with our BC DSM discount.  The re-usable fuel filter was purchased from Matthew Howe, a CA DSM member.  Link to purchase the fuel filter is here.  Machine work was done by my father inlaw.

First the parts needed:

	3' of Russel Proflex hose                         P/N: 632060            $43.00
	-6AN to -8AN reducer flare                     P/N: 661770            $7.11
	-6AN hose end                                      P/N: 610020            $8.18
	-6AN 45 degree hose end                       P/N: 610090            $20.95
	B&M fuel pressure gauge                                                       $50.00 (bought a while ago from Mopac, don't remember exactly)
	-6AN female swivel with 1/8" NPT port    P/N: 79201 (Mopac)  $13.83
	-6AN 90 degree swivel hose end             P/N: 613160             $27.25
	2 -6AN tube seal ends                            P/N: 623260 (Blue)    $14.06
	Quick dry JB weld                                  P/N: 8276                 $5.94
	Cone doctor fuel filter                                                             $40.00
	Teflon tape                                            Home Depot              $0.64

Here we go, you'll need to remove your fuel rail, battery and battery box, your injectors, fuel pressure regulator and the associated fuel lines.  Refer to the manual to do this.  Or check out the Stevetek site found here.

Here is a picture of the stock Canadian Tire fuel filter beside the Conedoctor one. 

After everything has been removed you will need to drill and tap the fuel rail to accept the -6AN to -8AN reducer flare.  You'll need to drill into the rail about 1.5" with an 11/16" drill bit and tap it with a 3/4" -16 tap.  Once it's been threaded you'll clean the rail up and mix up some JB weld.  Smear the JB weld over the threads in the rail as well as the flare fitting and let it dry overnight.  Here's a picture of the flare fitting attached to the rail.

Next wrap some teflon tape around the stock fuel line fitting that attaches to the fuel filter.  Then tighten the fitting onto the fuel filter.  The fuel filter came with a plastic bushing so that I could keep it in the stock location.

Now attach the swivel fitting with the 1/8" NPT port but don't attach fuel pressure gauge yet.  Tighten it down to the fuel filter and then attach the 90 degree swivel hose end and tighten that down on top of the gauge fitting.  Now wrap the fuel pressure gauge with some teflon tape and tighten it onto the fitting.

Now at the rail end.  Screw on the 45 degree hose end to the rail and tighten it down just hand tight, also stick your pre-measured amount of hose into the hose end and tighten that down.  You now stick your injectors in there with new o-rings if needed.  Put the regulator back on and drop the rail in.  You'll need to have the TB elbow support machined so that the 45 degree fitting clears it.  Fit it on there and cut away as necessary.  Once fitted attach the other end of the line to the 90 degree fitting above the fuel filter and tighten up the hose ends tightening up the 45 degree one first.  The 90 degree one has a swivel which will make assembly easier if tightened last.

Now to the regulator end, I found that the -6AN hose fits the regulator to return line almost perfectly.  Just stick it on there and use the 2 hose end caps you bought.

Once the fuel lines are all attached try energizing the fuel pump to see if there are any leaks.  If there are none then proceed to put the car back together and set up the fuel pressure. 

During this install I replaced the spring in the spoolin-up regulator with the stiffer one and set the fuel pressure at 37 psi with the hose disconnected.  I also replaced the injector connectors with the spiffy ones from Kinetic.  Driving around I noticed that the acceleration was better and there were no fuel leaks even at 21 psi :).  I have a fire extinguisher in the car just in case though.  Car still knocked a bit but with some fine tuning all should be OK.

That's it!